Project BruteForce2 - IONI-based DIY DD FFB Wheel (Extensive worklog)


User 12058

Please do not copy any of my work to other web-sites without prior approval and give credit where it is due.

Hello Guys,
After a rather short wait, here is the new Bruteforce2 project log, based on the newly released IONI Drive, by Granite Devices. This log will be a work-in-progress WIP, and I will consistently update the first few posts in this thread, to keep the information easily accessible.

Here are the links to the original Bruteforce Wheel project, based on the Argon drive, also by Granite Devices these are in iRacing forums:
Part 1:
Part 2:

Here is the local link:


Bruteforce2 will be the first wheel based on the IONI drive, and whilst I had a direct interface to Granite Devices in guiding the development of the IONI drive, to suit our DIY DD FFB wheel needs, there are a few key-players that make this build possible:

Tero Kontkanen (Granite Devices): For listening to our feedback and incorporating them into the final design:

1) IONI was originally planned as capable of driving ~8A Peak of Sine (POS), whist our minimal requirements called for ~13A POS. Due to this, the original 4x ‘PCI Express’ form factor was changed to 8x ‘PCIE Express’

2) A simple 1x Cube motherboard to make the overall project affordable and easy to implement

3) Provision for an external MOSFET driver stage that will allow us to drive large motors without any concern. With this feature, the sky is literally the limit , as it would be simple to design boards that can drive 100A POS. For practical use, however, we will be looking at ~30A POS. Lenze, large MiGe and others will be no problem.

4) Further to point 3 above, the capability to run 2x IONI drives in parallel on a 4x Cube board, which will allow higher current to those not wanting an external MOSFET driver stage – this feature is currently untested though

5) Encoder connector pin compatibility with Argon, as well as a simplified connection to E-Stop and Drive Enable interlocks

6) PWM+DIR control based on Argon PWM+DIR principles – thank you to Bernhard and Michael for your efforts with this!

7) One Granite software interface compatible with both IONI and Argon, soon new DIY DD FFB specific functions – the first I am testing, which will allow us to adjust current/torque on the fly

Michael MMos: For his HID USB Interface based on the STM32 Discovery Controller, and continuous efforts in developing the firmware, finetuning it all the time as well as adding new features. Thank you, without you, this would have not been easy. MMos (HID USB)

Bernhard Berger: For your original Argon API interface, it was you that got me started on Argon some time ago. I am hoping that at some point in the future, API mode will be available on IONI too, as I know you have very exciting things in development with the API interface. Bernhard Berger - API

Dennis Reimer, Martin Ascher: For your ongoing support to the sim-racing community, with ingenious solutions to some of our problems.

Ben Darley, Phil Berry, Brett Stiles: For your continuous research into components and producing parts-lists that will make prospective DIY’ers life so much easier, Ben and Phil, and Bretto, for tweaking my hub-design to something special - you can tell I am not artistic, lols

Late 2014 IONI discussions with Granite Devices – narrated

Meeting with Granite Devices, 17 November 2014
Argon and IONI FW: Tero and Timo was keen to explore the option of creating a smaller footprint firmware dedicated to FFB-based direct drive wheel applications. They will simplify the UI, as well as remove unnecessary parameters, for example, if we only use torque control, they could take away velocity and position modes. Also, parameters that can simply be calculated will be done and hidden from the UI view.

The new firmware will also have some other soft interlocks that will be selectable, something like preventing the wheel from exerting max force in an oscillatory fashion, like when you hit that damn wall after Eau du Rouge at Spa in the DW12 and the front wheels are caught at a bad angle, then the wheel will very violently do a few left-right movements, hanging off the wall that can get quite scary...

The main idea is that if the drive encounters that behaviour, it will be able to terminate the signal to the motor....of course; the degrees of rotation and interlock will be user selectable for those that will this added safety feature.

IONI: Tero confirmed the first prototypes based on 4x PCI Express form-factor (not electrically compatible) are being delivered by the end of November and he doesn't foresee any delays, the first commercial boards will be ready around the middle of December.

This is where things got really interesting. We discussed power stage and capabilities, and some here know the ION will be coming with a 10A driver stage. Well, after some brainstorming, Tero will be looking at making different versions of this, maybe something like basic, intermediate and advanced, not only in hardware capabilities, but also FW.

He agreed it will be relatively easy to use the full 8x PCI Express form factor (note again, not electrically the same pin config!!) instead of the current 4x length, and could very easily have the output stage provide.....wait for it.....~20A! Far out, that is better than the VSD-160E, and in par with Argon.

I also requested a feature that will allow us to use 2x IONI’s in parallel -> I was bowled over when Tero indicated that there will be selector on the pcb that will allow you to drive an external high-current spill my beer all over the floor...

So in essence, Tero will produce a high-current driver, probably in the 25-35A range, that we could buy off their web-shop.....and that will be driven directly by ION, something I was dreaming about someone would do for the flick of a switch or jumper, you can revert to onboard MOSFET driver, or external driver stage....

Tero may eventually also provide the information to any drive manufacturer (as well as us geeks) that will allow them to design their own external MOSFET driver stage, to suit whatever you want to do.

I cannot help to think the ION will redefine drive controllers for FFB wheels, and come at a significant lower price-point than Argon.

Although the footprint of this controller is insanely small; it will more than adequately fill a pretty large gap in the current direct-drive portfolio

DISCLAIMER 1: I accept no responsibility for anyone doing a project based on this information, I provide the following as a worklog of my endeavours and as information only. Should you decide to use this information for any purpose, the RISK IS ENTIRELY YOURS. In any such an event you want to use this information, please make use of certified and qualified electrical and mechanical engineers to support you.

Also please note the legal implications wrt patents should you set out to gain commercially from this exercise! I provide this information with the full intent that this is for personal use only, no more, no less.

DISCLAIMER 2 - SAFETY: Please keep in mind that the forces that the DIY DD FFB will generate is significantly higher than any available commercial FFB wheel, direct or otherwise driven. If you lose control during racing, or you have a wheel that behaves erratically, keep your hands away from it and rather hit the E-Stop or Drive Enable button. You have that wired, right? Also, note if you are using any USB cables connected to the wheel rim, secure it well!

If there is a risk that the wheel might dislodge the cable, you don't want it near your face or eyes. Take precaution and rather wear safety goggles then when using this wheel. Safety first people.
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-> Ben Darley has made a very comprehensive list of the hardware required for this and Argon projects, I will await his email and post that in pdf format when I receive it.

-> For the ones in a tight budget, a big thanx to Phil Berry for the list below, please download the (Phil Berry Cheapskate Parts List) PDF file - sorry Phil I could not resist!!

With that said, my components and bits and pieces below, I will update and complete the list to suit the components used in the Argon build, that will allow me to use the same enclosure and buttons, glands, etc....

This first part of my build will be based on the IONI 4x Cube and Single IONI drive, as we are still awaiting arrival of the 1x Cube Motherboards.

1 -> Servomotors

MiGe Servo

Motors generally used in the DIY versions are mostly sourced from AliExpress, manufactured by Hangzhou Mige electric Co. For the best pricing, talk to Lisa Zhan directly, you can email her at or visit them ->

For the IONI single drive based on either 1x or 4x Cube, the best motor to use would be one that would not exceed 15A POS (10.6A RMS), hence the small MiGe 130ST-M10010 with 20NM peak torque will be the best fit ->

For those that will be using the external Driver Stage once available, and would like more torque, not that it is needed btw, you can go for the larger MiGe 130ST-M15015, it is a shoulder-killer with 30NM peak torque available ->

A photo of the 20NM small MiGe, it is not small by any stretch of the imagination, weighing in at ~11kgs...attached is my old-style hub, the red part at the front an adapter by Brett Stiles, as well as my temporary mounting bracket, which I may develop a little further, as it makes for quick and convenient change-out of different servo motors....


and another angle


To give an idea of size, here is a shot showing the Large and small MiGe vs the original ECCI 7000 motor....bloody animals they are, god for a great workout. You can use this as an justification to your Wife, you won't need to pay Gym-fees any longer.


Lenze Servo

For those keen on trying a Lenze, contact Dennis Reimer at -> he might be able to assist with sourcing one - here is the motor specs - please be aware though that the Lenze, as is the case with the large MiGe, will need an external driver stage if you are after the full torque potential of these motors.

Lenze IdNr 15336793


ventilated version would be:


Here is a photo of mine, with a Martin Ascher mount, as well as split-bush and wheel adapter. Please note these pieces are temporary, I will do a custom mount for this, and we are awaiting the newly designed Beano/HRS hubs below, to round it off nicely.


Stepper Motors

Although I won't be playing with these, IONI has the capability to drive Stepper Motors in closed-loop mode to the tune of over 25k micro-steps, for those that might want to look at really cheap and affordable alternatives. I leave this up to those keen to have a play, and please, if you do find something that works well, let me know, and I can update part numbers and specs here.

Below a pic of a NEMA 34 closed-loop stepper, similar to that which the Accuforce is using, although that one is 'custom' made to SimXperience specifications. Compared to the 130mm body and 22mm shaft dia of the MiGe, it is indeed compact at ~85mm frame and 14mm shaft dia.


2 -> Custom Hub and Drive-lock

For the mechanical connection between motor and wheel rim, I have sourced a split-bush at 22mm id ->


I have designed a hub for the original Bruteforce build, and I have somewhat refined it for Bruteforce2. First picture below is of the baseline design I have done, using the same Drivelock bush as per above. The good thing about going down this path, is that I can use the same Hub, and fit different versions of the Drivelock 13 series to suit the Lenze, MiGe and Bodnar Servos.....happy with that.


Sharp eyes might pick up the recess around the center of the hub, this will allow the Inductive Charger Coil to sit snug and cosy - something else I want to play with at some stage - well, better to include it now than to redesign the hub later.


The next render is after letting Bret Stiles loose on it, I have to say I like the final design a lot, and have ordered a few for my use.


3 -> IONI Drive Controller

Onto the part that will act as a driver controller for the motor, again most commonly used and open source with custom firmware for this application, done by Granite Devices in Tampere, Finland - the newly release IONI Drive Controller ->

Please note there are the drive Controller, as well as the 4x Cube board that I will use in this project, and then, within the next few weeks, we will have the 1x Cube board available too.

IONI Drive: -> Link to Wiki Pages ->



IONI 4x Cube: -> Link to Wiki Pages ->



and drive and 4x Cube side by side, the drive is indeed tiny...


IONI 1x Cube: -> Link to Wiki Pages ->
*Please note we are awaiting delivery of the 1x Cube motherboards, I will update this once information is available. Picture below is the standard original 1x Cube prototype board, there are slight modifications to the release version:


External MOSFET Driver:
Please note this is FYI only, Tero and Team will decide if they will do this external driver as an Indiegogo campaign, or make the design files available to us DIY'ers to roll our own. Anyway nice to have such powerful capabilities from such a small drive.



4 -> HID USB Controller

This device acts as the interface between your PC (Simulator Game) and the IONI Drive Controller.

STM32F4DISCOVERY: -> &WT.z_header=search_go

The recommended USB interface is the STM32 Discovery.


Core407V: ->

There is an alternate model, a smaller footprint board, called the Core407V -> this will also work with the MMos firmware, but please note it is not pin-compatible with the Discovery, so be careful to ensure your wires at connected to the correct pins - as said, different on both

Please note the smaller Core407V also needs an external programmer (to make things easier for most) ->


And here a shot comparing the original STM32 Discovery to the smaller Core407V


Since the STM32F4 discovery doesn't come with any mounting holes, I recommend the following mounts for the Disco ->

5 -> Power Supplies

Logic PSU

A small 24V Logic PSU is required to power the IONI and Cube - the current requirements will be in the 600ma range for every IONI drive - for those looking to use these as a multi-axis CNC controller, please take the above in consideration.

With that in mind, I got myself some real nice Meanwell 24V 3.2A units, link here ->

For those interested in a single IONI and 1x Cube board, I also sourced a smaller MeanWell unit, 24V 630mA, and they work like a dream ->

Main PSUThe Main PSU will connect to the 4x Cube HV inputs, and will be switched via the IONI onboard MOSFET driver stage and provide power to drive the Servo Motor.

There are 2 options here, using either a switch-mode or then a linear (preferred) power supply.

If you opt for the more readily available switch-mode power supply, please note the requirements for a capacitor and beefy DIODE on the output stage, this will act as protection for the PSU against reverse-currents by the motor.

(An 8000 micro-farad, 80VDC capacitor, together with a 35-40A 400-600A Schottky diode should work well, at least it does for me.)

Here's a link to the Diodes I would suggest, they work rather well.... ->

Search for MeanWell 48V 600W PSU, this will result in quite many links on Ebay. Usually get mine from Taiwan, here is a photo with the aforementioned capacitor, diode and wiring fitted - please note I did a dirty and used the one leg of a 35a bridge rectifier, as my diodes were still enroute from Hong Kong...




The second option, would be the preferred one, as Linear PSU's can provide high current for very short bursts....again, please search for 600W or 800W linear PSU, the one below is an (way overkill for small MiGe) Antekinc 50V 800W unit -> I selected the optional 24V option here that will allow me to do away with the need for a separate 24V Logic PSU unit: ->

Please see here for one of Ben Darley's very nice descriptive how-to videos, this time on wiring the Antekinc Linear PSU pictured below, to 230VAC systems - watch this before you do, it is important!! Otherwise. you might end up with smoke and tears. Thanx Ben!!


6 -> Enclosure

As I travel to Tokyo a lot, by mere chance I discovered someone at Akihabara Electrical Town selling some pretty decent enclosures, made by Takachi, I am using the MB-25 model for my endeavours, as this is the same one I use for Bruteforce based on the Argon Drive Controller ->

Below a photo of the Takachi enclosure, with my custom CF plates for top, front and back. This unit is my current original Bruteforce DIY wheel, running the Argon, I would like the Bruteforce2 to look the same at the end.


More to follow soon!!


  • Phil Berry Cheapskate DIY Parts List.pdf
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To be continued'

I will update this section as receive the 1x Cube hardware, please note the schematic below is only applicable to the 4x Cube and Single IONI Drive as per my prototype testing.

Block Diagram of the IONI based on the 4x Cube

edit: fixed a few cosmetics, use this latest version (7 May 2015) - please download pdf at bottom for higher resolution!


4x Cube Wiring Diagram

Please download pdf at bottom for higher resolution!


4x Cube Port Config

Below a few pictures of the location of the ports on the 4x Cube, please note the small white arrows donates Pin 1 in each case. This might save you a bit of time.

Cube viewed from the top, indicating the X-Axis


front view, highlighting the Encoder and Servo Motor Output Power connectors:


Last view of the various connectors as indicated in the schematic:


1x Cube Wiring Diagram

Added 3rd of July 2015


Wireless buttons directly to the Discovery
*Added 27th of December, 2015

**Here is a link to Dropbox to Download the complete firmware and instructions

If you guys want to use NRF51822 modules to have a 16-button wireless connection to the discovery controller, please follow the instructions in the HOW-TO pdf file below, should provide you with a good starting point.



  • IONI DIY FFB Wheel Block Layout_rev1.pdf
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  • Beano_Schematic_IONI_to_MiGe_4xCUBE_Rev0.pdf
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  • Beano_Schematic_IONI_to_MiGe__1xCube_Rev0.pdf
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To be continued'

To be updated

IONI Firmware Updates:
Latest version 1.1.0 ->

Discovery Interface
ST-Link software ->
* This is used to flash the MMos FW, downloaded in the link below, to the Discovery board.

MMos Firmware* ->
* Zip Files at the bottom of the 1st post in that thread, to be flashed by ST-Link software above

For the correct procedure on how to flash the Discovery Controller to MMos FFB Controller, please download and follow the procedure in the 'STM32F4 Discovery Firmware update.pdf'.

But, for the lazies, Ben Darley has done another superb video on the procedure, might make it easier for you. thanx again Ben, these are pretty darn handy :)

Granity Software Suite:
Latest version 1.6.0 and to be used with IONI FW 1.1.0 ->

IONI flashing and setup procedure to follow during the next week

Basic settings for IONI, this is for the MiGe M10010 (small MiGe)

*Please note screenshots are in the same order of the 'tabs' in Granity software, from left to right.








A post about relations between servo torque, IONI amps and MMoS, IRacing sliders, this might help you understand the relationship a bit better - posted on IRacing, so ignore the names, please

Phillip Jansen van Rensburg schrieb:
Hey Daniel,
The motor is rated in RMS current (Root Mean Square)

The drive output is rated in Peak of Sine current (POS).

If memory serves, the small Mige is rated at 9.1A RMS peak and 2.20NM/A torque constant. 9.1 X 2.2 = 20.02NM torque.

To get the full servo peak torque in IONI, you need to set the POS current level in IONI at 9.1A RMS X 1.4142 = 12.87A POS.

Thus IONI MMC of 12.87A POS setting will drive the servo at 9.1A RMS, which is ~=20NM.

MMC = 12.87
MCC = 12.77

Now, the above is true of you set MMC and MCC in Granite as per the above, MMoS to 100% and the IRacing slider to 20NM.

Under Driving the servo:

With all else equal, but moving the IRacing slider to 30NM:
Real servo torque then becomes 20/30x 20NM = 13.33NM

Moving the IRacing slider to 40NM:
Real servo output then becomes 20/40x 20NM = 10NM

Overdriving the servo:
For example, moving the slider to 15NM
20/15x 20= 26.67NM.

Under driving the servo, no other changes need in the setup. Overdriving the servo, you can see that more current is needed in the IONI setup. How much more?

Well, 26.67NM with a torque constant of 2.2NM/A = 12.12A RMS.

12.12A RMS X 1.4142 = 17.15A POS ( this is what would be set in Granity MMC, perhaps 17.00 for MCC)

Above just showing the calculations in how it all works, I won't advise overdriving the servos though ;) if you want to play with overdriving the small Mige to 25NM, you will need (25/2.2)X 1.4142 =16.1A POS setting in Granity, and then move the slider to 16NM in IRacing.

Again, not a good plan, as you will induce clipping, much better to get the correct servo that suits your physical abilities.....

Above all for the small Mige, the big Mige have a torque constant of 1.57, the Lenze = 1.4 and the AKM53K = 1.24, you need to recalculate granite settings.

Hope this clarifies a bit, let me know if there are questions, and don't quote me on the above torque constants, I am traveling and no time to confirm, but they should be close.

@Brion: Looking at your settings:

Big Mige torque constant of 1.57NM/A
Peak Torque = 30NM
Servo RMS current needed is 19.11A

It means you will need to set IONI Pro HC to 19.11A RMS X 1.4142 = 27A POS in Granite, which you can't do, as the max setting is 25A. I can though, becUse I am beta-testing something special, and can do 30A POS, which means I can drive my big Mige to 30NM, as well as the Lenze to 29NM.

In your case, if you set the POS in Granity to 25A for MMC and 24.9 A for MCC, it means your servo can deliver a real torque of (25/1.4142)X 1.57 = 27.8 NM, provided MMoS is set to 100%, and IRacing set to 27.8NM then.

If you have the above settings, but have the slider at 30NM, then it means you are slightly under driving the servo to (27.8/30)x27.8=25.76 NM.

If you are running your slider at your current 47 NM, and provided you set MMC and MCC to ~ 25A POS in the IONI, you will have a real torque of (27.8/47) X 27.8 = 16.44NM.

If I consider your earlier current settings, of 18A, you were running ((18/1.4142) x1.58 ) /47x20 =8.56NM real torque. This 8.56/30= 28.5% of the real servo capability.

Apologies for my verbose reply, but this might help others understand the basic maths behind this, and remove some of the misunderstandings floating around.

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To be continued'

1 -> 29 April 2015
During my visit to Tampere, I managed to meet Tero and Aki for beers, and we have discussed quite many things around sim-racing in general. We have shared many ideas, and there will be quite many specialised bits of kit coming from these guys. They are keen to jump on-board on provide more than just argon and IONI drives, hence I am looking forward brainstorming a few ideas with them.

All I can say at this point though, there are quite many exciting ideas in the pipeline.
Back to IONI, and its features: During this meet, we obviously consumed the most famous of Finnish beverages, i.e quality beer, and as you can imagine, the more beers, the more creative we are. well, we have discussed a few additional features I think would be handy:

1) Ability to adjust the torque on the fly, for those times when you started a race, but forgot the torque-setting on a to high or low level ingame.....

2) Ability to set rotational limit ( read hardstops) in the FW itself - this will be handy for those instances when the software night force the wheel to do something silly, and I would like to be able to set the FW limitis slightly wider than what we set in the MMos interface.

Well, Tero is bloody quick, just over a week later, he forwarded me a beta FW to be tested, which includes both those features. The file landed in my lap last night, I will only be able to test this coming Friday evening though, but great progress none the less.

Below an excerpt from my his email - more to come later, this is just a teaser.

You may try the attached beta firmware that has OSW specific functions:
1) Travel limit in torque mode
2) Scaling with trimpot


It has own parameter defined as:
/*Special torque mode specific settings, currently IONI only. This paramterer is a bitfield

Update - Grounding your system - This will eliminate EMI - 26Nov2015

Hello All,
Below a few pictures of my standard external wiring to remove EMI 100%. I use this on Lenze, MiGE, AKM servos, but this will work well for any DD FFB wheels........

I mostly use 16ga cable, except for the pedals, where I use 22ga for practical reasons.

Firstly, I ensure I properly ground the motor. I run a cable from the unpainted face of the servo, to my stainless steel wheel mounting can see the cable from the bolt on the top right to the one on the Ascher mount, front right-hand side....


Next up, note the two cables underneath my mounting tray.....This is of course now connected to the servo ground, as I am using a SS plate....


The one goes from the mounting point above, to the back of my computer case - an easy place is normally just to secure the earthing cable down to one of the PSU screws....
Please again nite, in this case, the screw is of bare metal, nickel-coated brass, and makes firm contact to the crew threads in the no need to scrape paint of the case....


The other cable from underneath the tray, goes to a simple splitter....


Of course, the one end connects to my 'OSW' controller box, and that controller box, as is the case of your computer case, is connected back down to your house grounding soy stem via the standard IEC power easy, isn't it.


The other end of that connects to underneath my pedal tray, where I have made a couple of earthing straps to link my 3 HE Ultimate pedals together....this was necessary as my pedals are mounted to a 60mm thick piece of pine, and we need to ground them, as well as the electronics.....

The cable mentioned above comes from the splitter to the one in the middle.....joined to the thinner one....


Connected underneath the pedal tray like this....


And note the thinner cable, which then runs to any ground (Gnd) pin on the controller board on my pedals.....


For the wheel controller, I run a simple Gnd cable from one of the ground pins on the button controller board, here I am using a BBI32, as an example, to a bolt on my QR1 quick release. Again, note you need to make contact with bare metal on the QR.....I use a simple spring washer underneath the lug, this will cut through the anodizing, but in any even, use a multimeter and test for continuity from your Gnd pin to the servo once the wheel is mounted to the servo.....


Please note, if you are using an all metal frame, like 8020, you will require less Gnd wires. But my method works well, is pretty quick and easy and guarantees a working system.


UPDATE - TERO is running IONI Pro HC - 9 Dec 2015

Hey All,
Just had a nice email from Tero.

During this past weekend, Tero and Aki had a first test-run of their MMos DIY wheel - yeay, lots of good things to come!!

They were so eager, fitted a wheel-rim, albeit on a very nice hub Aki has quickly done on the inhouse machinery. The hardware is based on the Disco board, MMos FW and IONI Pro HC. The servo has a Sin/Cos encoder and a is a scary 36 Nm (peak) motor.


Tero very quickly prototyped few ideas in firmware level (I can see a lot more of this coming very soon, I will follow up with another post, hopefully tonight, about recent discussions we had in Finland)

-Encoder output from IONI GPO pins routed to the Disco, this could give sin/cos resolution advantage to the Disco. However the first implementation has too much jitter in quadrature output which is pretty much negating the benefits - more work on this will be done

-Effects (spring, friction, damping, inertia) calculation ported to IONI. This immediately made an improvement over MMos, and will be fine-tuned

Tero is still not fully familiar with MMos' filter principles, but at least it's friction and inertia effects seemed a bit odd, he feels. Friction looks like "viscous damping" and inertia effect is very weird: at slow wheel speeds it resists movement, and at any higher speed it boosts it. However it may be, Tero will implement those functions directly to IONI to reduce latencies on those filters.

See Tero's video where he is testing his version, implemented directly on IONI:

The reason why a lot of these effects and functions will move over to the IONI itself: If the simulator update rate is 60 or 120 Hz and all post processing is done on the IONI controller hardware, there should be no need for going above that update rate from USB. It should not make any difference in sending setpoints at 1kHz if it would just repeat same setpoint many times before the simulator gives a new value.

The above scenario of course only applies directly to the IONI. Of course, this is the fun-part of DIY DD FFB: We have a great drive-controller developer working very closely with the community, to improve and implement sim-specific functions directly onto the controller, to reduce latencies.

Tero will implement and test many things after our recent discussions, some will work, others won't, but the end result will be a very good and stable, low-cost powerful motor controller, which will allow you to select the motor of your choosing.

This here is a watershed moment for us, and we can expect rapid progress in this arena.

Will keep you posted with more.

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Adapterboards for my Argon Adapter are in working progress and will arrive in early June. OSW Complete kits will still have Argon in it, no further support from my side for IONI.
I will still support original OSW based on Argon with API Mode support.

Adapterboards für mein STM Argon Adapter sind in der Produktion und werden anfang Juni bei mir eintreffen. OSW Komplettsets werden nach wie vor mit Argon ausgeliefert, es wird von mir keinen Support für die IONI geben und fragen dazu werden nicht beantwortet, bzw wurden schon im Forum beantwortet. Vorteile und Nachteile sind über die Suche zu finden. Nur nochmal kurz: Es kann günstiger werden wenn man auf dynamik und Leistung verzichtet, um die Torque und Dynamikwerte der Argon zu erreichen, benötigt man ein großes AC/DC Netzteil, mit 48V und min. 20A (~1000W) und das frisst für große Motoren jeden Vorteil auf. Als Leistungsequivalentes Gerät für einen CSW V2 oder T500rs ersatz reicht ein 24V/20A Netzteil (200€ Meanwell, mit lautem Lüfter)

IONI ist kein Argon ersatz.

Ich werde weiterhin das originale OSW, das auf der Argon basiert, mit dem API Mode, unterstützen. :)

Just for info.

User 10571

beano, what about that hub you did there... are you selling these individual? how does/can it fit on a lenze?

User 12058

@Dennis: Thanx for the info!

@McErono: I designed these so that they use either a 22mm Drivelock split bush for the MiGe, or a 19mm Drivelock split bush for the Lenz. I wanted it to be universal in that sense.

We are awaiting a current batch, there might be a few spare ones, I will let you know what is the situation! I just order myself a few, but do it through Brett Stiles, who has the CNC connection in Japan for this.....

Should be 3 more weeks before I get them...

kind regards,
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User 10571

cool, would be really interested buying one. I love the look of it. do you make them red (brett's picture) or black?

User 12058

They will come in both red and black, as well as natural aluminium :) Something different.

I will keep you posted.
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User 11817

For the correct procedure on how to flash the Discovery Controller to MMos FFB Controller, I have made a pdf, how can I upload it to this site?
You have to attach it, use the 'Anhänge verwalten' button. Then upload it (green +).

Good you bring up the linear PSU , they are indeed very good for our purpose. One downside is that you cant adjust the output Voltage (wheel rpm).

User 12058

Hey Michael,
Thanx for that info, I will add the pdf files!! My German is not that good, hehe.

edit: Ok, that worked well, I have added some pdf files to relevant sections ;)

Yes, the good old Linear PSU......luckily we can order them in the voltage range that suits us best, but anyway, the SMPS are pretty decent, no issues yet on my prototype setup.
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User 11065

I bought the first one, it has a terrible fan which went on after some time and stopped and went on again, for no reason.. but i have to go with it, there are no other good ones.

User 11817

Could snatch a nice motor, Kolmorgen AKM54 with an custom winding and a B&R Automation sticker on it. New but scratched and a dent. It has an Heidenhein multiturn encoder with analog incremental outputs. Good NM/A ration (1.9) and good voltage constant of 120V/1000rpm. Probably to Bruteforce for me but it was to cheap to not buy it.

AKM54 and Mige(small)

And the Encoder
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User 12058

That's a nice find Michael! Damn - I need to get one or 2 of these for testing, would make for a great backup motor.

Thank you for sharing, I will post the links you sent me shortly!

Let us know how it goes, but I fully expect it is going to make for a bloody awesome experience :)


User 12058

Hey Guys,
Ollie Aina from over at iRacing is busy designing a new all-in-one type carrier board for IONI - these will be available for purchase from him, once ready I will post a link.

I think this will fill a nice void in the DIY market, and make this even more accessible and affordable for the masses. One big benefit is the ability to fit for example, 4x small 100W or 150w SMPS as an HV power source to the servo.....

I will get one to try, I don't mind doing the basic wiring anyway, but will give this a good go to see if it is stable and good for our use. I am also looking forward to what Michael will bring to the table in this regard, as that would be the longer term solution that might cater for additional features and benefits for us.

For now though, this will help get the wheel out to more people, so a very good idea. The board would make doing a DIY wheel based on IONI very simple, basically connecting a few wires, flashing software and off you go.
Here are some rough renders of his board design:

A couple from the top:



Next up:
•48V DC Inputs for up 4 low power PSUs wired 4x1
•Accommodates higher power PSU's by wiring them 2x2 or 1x4


•Mini-USB for USB HID
•Micro-USB for Programming IONI and STM32 MCU (can also do API interface if Bernhard get that working on IONI)
•9 way PCB connector for E-Stop, STO, enable (pin count will be reduced in later revisions)


•4 way PCB connector for motor power
•D-Sub 15 Connector for motor feedback (can be replaced with PCB terminal block for those who hate soldering)


•24 Input/Output connections from STM32 with 3 GND points for buttons, pedals etc


•Top half - STM32 & SimpleMotion V2 circuitry
•Bottom Half - reserved for IONIZER circuitry


Please note these are early renders guys and very much a work in progress. Expect some changes to be forthcoming, based on feedback and testing. will keep you in the loop.
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User 12905

Got the IONI 1x kit few days ago! Now I just don't know where to start building or buying all the rest of the electronics... I saw that the 600W version of Antek power supply was out of stock. Do you think the 500W version would be enough for the smaller MiGE?

User 12058

Hello Guys,
I have completed the 1x Cube Schematic, enjoy! PDF on the 1st page!

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User 10296

I just received my X4 cube and an IONI pro :-) Let the hacking begin! *disassemblingscn5actuator*

Gesendet von meinem XT894 mit Tapatalk